We met, how else, over a glass. Tomáš Šajgal, the founder of Mäd wines, is passionate about natural wines. We’ve talked with Marek Mravec, Gatto Matto’s general manager, about their upward trend.
Tomáš, could you start by telling us what natural wines are?
Tomáš: Natural wines are also known as low-intervention, artisan, naked, and vegan wines. They are vibrant wines packed with energy. For me, the ordinary wines that are people normally buy are like French cuisine. Subtle and uniform. They’re designed to suit every palate. Natural wines, on the other hand, I would liken more to Italian or Asian cuisine. They’re full of flavour, wild and bold. They symbolise a return to roots and integrity. We’re not reinventing the wheel here. (laughs) Natural wines were already being drunk before the Second World War. It was only later that wine began to be reformulated to appeal to a wide range of consumers by introducing various artificial yeasts, nutrients, stabilisers, filtration, and fining processes… I am delighted that today we are able to make great craft beers, great coffees and even good wine without these processes.
What, apart from the taste, distinguishes them from conventional wine?
Tomáš: Drinking ordinary wine can give you a headache or make you feel nauseous later on. You know, I’m in my thirties. Once you hit thirty, it’s not just a hangover – it’s like battling for your very survival! (laughs) That’s why I only drink natural wines these days. In my line of work, I come into contact with wine every day and I don’t want to suffer. (laughs) And then there’s the added bonus of sustainability. The winemakers I work with are doing their bit for the planet by producing natural wines. Every three months, they send me a report on how much CO2 they’ve emitted in their operations and how they’re working to eliminate it. They’re almost down to zero, so the carbon footprint is pretty minimal.
Povieš nám aj o vzniku Mäd wines? Kde ste sa tu vzali?
Tomáš: I’ve had a wonderful relationship with wine for more than 20 years now. (laughs) I studied wine in Slovakia and at an academy abroad. I worked with various distributors and helped to set up a couple of businesses in Bratislava. It was a great way to gain some insight into the whole wine business. I’ve always been surrounded by people who share my passion for it. People would come up to me and ask which wine I thought was the best. To this day, I still answer that the best wine is the wine you enjoy in the company of friends. (smiles) Then they asked me where to get the good wine. I didn’t have a clear answer to that, so I started importing it myself.
Mäd wines currently has a portfolio of 600 wines, and I know them all. I’ve also worked with most of the winemakers on a hands-on basis. We pruned the vineyard, hoed, bottled, harvested, labelled… I know their cellars. I know how they process their grapes. This makes for a very open and transparent way of working together. It’s my name on the line, so when I make a recommendation, you can be sure I mean it wholeheartedly. I make informed choices and stand by them.
I was really drawn to the wacky wine labels. To what extent do they match what’s in the bottle?
Tomáš: A big extent. Obviously, a label is a sales tool, and some winemakers understand that it’s a way of making that initial impression. But it’s also a way to express yourself. There’s more to it than meets the eye. Dávid Kušický, who is currently in the Forbes top 30 under 30, has hands in some form or another on every label. Even his wine boxes show hands holding them, as if embracing what’s inside. This is because he has a lot of respect for the work that people do with their hands. His own work, and that of everyone around him. Vlado Magula’s labels feature a carved vine root, which is important to him. Like the roots of his whole family. Winemakers work with different Slovak and international artists to design their labels. There’s a link with art in general. The people who enjoy natural wines are open-minded and know how to appreciate them in every way.
Where did the idea of linking the Gatto Matto & Mäd wines brand come from?
Marek: Over a glass of wine, of course. (laughs) From the get-go, it was obvious to both sides that we wanted to team up. We’re on the same page when it comes to our approach to guests and to the “craft” itself. I like that Tomáš has a personal connection with the winemakers. At Gatto Matto, we also try to take the same approach to our suppliers of fresh vegetables, meat and other products. We, too, are on the lookout for local gems, and that gives us a great deal of happiness. As does the Gatto Matto & Mäd wines association. So stay tuned for fresh developments heading this way.
What do you have in store for your guests?
Marek: We thought it would be great to give them the chance to try something different, something with a story behind it. That’s why we went for these vibrant, natural wines. For starters, we’ve put together a series of regular EVENINGS WITH A SOMMELIER events, which will be hosted at Gatto Matto Ventúrska. Tomáš and his colleagues from Mäd wines will be here for that. I suggest you make a note in your diary. (laughs) There’ll be lots of wines, fruitful discussions and elements of surprise Bude tu veľa druhov vín, výživné debaty a momenty prekvapenia.
Tomáš: In particular, guests can look forward to our candour. In recent years, we’ve seen some great developments that are making our lives better. We make sure we exercise regularly, look after ourselves, eat less meat and drink sensibly. As the sommelier, I’m excited to introduce something really good, local and authentic. When you’ve got great sourdough pizza and quality olive oil, you deserve a nice wine to go with it. We’d be really happy if our guests leave not only full and happy, but also with something new to think about.
20.02.2024, Silvia Biskupičová